A Weekend in Port Macquarie, Done Properly

Coastal walking track leading to Tacking Point lighthouse at Port Macquarie

Build your Port Macquarie weekend around one thing: the nine-kilometre coastal walk that runs from the Town Green foreshore all the way to Tacking Point lighthouse. Nearly everything worth doing on the mid-north coast’s favourite town hangs off that single line of coast, which makes planning refreshingly simple.

Here is a two-day version that locals would recognise: town end on Saturday, lighthouse end on Sunday, and a set of swaps for rain, kids or thirst. You will not need the car much once you arrive, which is half the point.

First, pick your base

For families or groups, Beachside Holiday Apartments runs 29 self-contained one, two and three bedroom apartments with a heated pool and a rooftop barbecue area with panoramic ocean views, which is exactly where you want to be at sunset with something on the grill. Free parking and free WiFi round out the practical case, and the large lounge and dining areas mean nobody is eating dinner on a bed.

Travelling as a pair, book one of the four rooms at Ana Mandara Luxury Bed & Breakfast instead. The rooms come with views worth waking for, there is a hot tub for post-walk recovery, and a complimentary breakfast starts the day, all of which will matter by Sunday.

Saturday: the town end

Morning

Start at Black Market Bagels, which makes New York-style bagels the slow, traditional way and fills them with the likes of smoked salmon, cream cheese and capers. Note the hours: weekdays to 1:30pm and Saturday mornings only, so this is strictly a day-one move.

Walk it off at Kooloonbung Creek Nature Reserve, five minutes along Horton Street from the town centre. Boardwalks thread through the reserve, the historic cemetery holds the graves of the Hastings area’s early settlers, and there is a large Water Dragon sculpture that small kids treat as a celebrity.

Afternoon

Spend the afternoon on the first stretch of the coastal walk, from Town Green past Town Beach to the Rocky Beach lookout. The full route runs nine kilometres one way, but it breaks into sections neatly, and there is no rule against saving the southern half for tomorrow. Historical sites dot the route, so allow more time than the distance suggests, and pack swimmers, because Town Beach will make its own argument as you pass.

Evening

Come down to the Hastings River for a drink at Little Shack, a riverside spot with a Mexican streak that opens every day, rain or shine, and keeps pouring cocktails into the evening. The fish tacos are the daytime order; the cocktail list is the reason to linger.

Dinner is Bloom PMQ, a 65-seat room with hardwood floors and outdoor tables that look towards the river if you can claim one. The kitchen cooks locavore dishes from biodynamic produce on a menu that changes with the seasons; the mushroom risotto, pork belly and lamb shoulder are the ones regulars mention.

Sunday: to the lighthouse

Morning

Grab a quick coffee and croissant from Little Shack, which opens daily, then pick up the southern half of the coastal walk. The route threads Nobby’s Beach and climbs to Harry’s Lookout above Shelly Beach, where a bush track of 254 hand-carved steps drops you to the sand. Shelly is the family pause point: shade, picnic tables, barbecues, carved timber King and Queen chairs, and a quirky recreation of Harry’s caravan serving as a picnic table.

Midday

Next comes Sea Acres Rainforest Centre, 76 hectares of coastal rainforest with a 1.3-kilometre boardwalk through the canopy. This southern stretch is one of the few places on the east coast where the forest runs right down to the surf, and the centre’s cafe overlooking the green is a sensible lunch stop. The education centre is worth twenty minutes for anyone curious about what they have been walking through, and it earns its place on the itinerary because it turns a pretty walk into an interesting one.

Afternoon

Finish at Lighthouse Beach beneath Tacking Point Lighthouse, which has stood since 1879. The beach runs long enough for camel safari rides, beach fishing and a 4WD stretch at the southern end, the surf suits intermediate riders and up, and dogs get their own run south of Watonga Rocks.

Reward yourself at COAST Lighthouse Beach, the cafe at the Lighthouse Beach Holiday Village that opens daily from 6:30am. The bacon and egg rolls have a following, and the outlook doubles as a whale and dolphin watching post when the season obliges.

The swaps

Travelling with kids, or rained out: Billabong Zoo: Koala & Wildlife Park holds more than 100 species, runs free zoo talks through the day, and offers up-close encounters with cheetahs, snow leopards, koalas, red pandas, meerkats and snakes. It opens every day from 9am, and the playground, picnic areas and koi ponds buy the adults a quiet coffee from the zoo cafe.

Chasing a long lunch instead of a long walk: Little Fish Cafe Restaurant Vineyard sits inside the Innes Lake Vineyards on The Ruins Way, cooking Mediterranean food with a French twist among jacarandas and vines. And wine people should detour to Cassegrain Wines on Fernbank Creek Road, where the family’s winemaking story stretches back to France in 1643.

If the sea is calling louder than the trail, Port Jet Cruise Adventures runs the Wave Rider, a boat purpose-built for this stretch of coast, from Short Street near the town centre. It is the fastest way to see the coastline you just walked from the other side.

Before you pack the car

Two days covers the spine, not the whole town; the bakeries, delis and remaining beaches will still be there next visit. There is a longer list of things to do in Port Macquarie, more tables in the food and drink listings, and other beds in the accommodation guide when you inevitably plan the return trip.

And you will. Towns built along one perfect line of coast have a way of getting people back.

Callum Reid Avatar

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