Restaurants

What's new in Perth's restaurant scene.

HOLY SMOKES

Holy Smokes is a penny pincher/carnivore's wet dream, featuring (you guessed it) cheap meat eats. Run by brother-sister duo Chris and Jenny Ritson, this small bar has an even smaller menu, which includes American barbecue-style meats, smoked in-house. Most of the dishes are priced just under a tenner, so
you can load up on $7 sliders (pulled pork is our pick), mac and cheese croquettes, hot wings and housemade beef jerky. Wash it down with American brown ale, a Moonshine Apple Tart cocktail, or something from Holy Smokes' range of American whiskeys and bourbons. Feeling a bit flush? Try the country pork ribs for $22, or the chicken and waffles for $14. Shop 8, 17-23 Collie Street, Fremantle.

BOWL'N

If you haven't embraced the smoothie bowl trend yet, you better head to Bowl'n. Perched between Nando's and Tartine Cafe, this hole-in-the-wall, Hawaiian-themed space serves up a variety of healthy and ridiculously filling smoothie bowls to eat in or on the go. What are they exactly? Think a thick, mousse-like combination of good things such as acai, avocado, cacao, honey, coconut milk and banana, with toppings including berries, passionfruit, nuts and bee pollen. Bowl'n also has a fridge full of superfood balls and raw slices if you are looking for something more… solid. 140 William Street, Perth.

MID-CENTURY CAFE & COLLECTABLES

Want to do the time warp again? Then walk straight into this cafe-meets-op shop in Yokine. The family-run venue has a 1950s fitout, complete with retro kitchen, velour chairs and old record players. Eat breakfast while reading a 1960s magazine, or browse the shop's range of 50s to 70s collectables while you wait for your Dimattina coffee to be brewed. Quaint at its quaintest. 56 Michael Street, Yokine.

AROUND THE GLOBE

The historic 1880s Globe Hotel was once the statement entry to the City of Perth, and its reinvention as The Globe Bar and Eatery looks set to continue this legacy. Part of the vibrant 140 Perth precinct, this multi-venue space brings three new zones to the CBD – a bar with tiered terrace, eatery, and laneway lounge. Serving lunch and dinner, the restaurant's menu is designed for sharing, with a selection of Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired starters, meat and fish mains, plus vegie sides and extensive cocktail list. 495-497 Wellington Street, Perth.

A PIZZA ADVICE

Sorry, Dominos – crappy takeaway pizza has had its day. From now on, it's gourmet all the way.

1. Propeller
222 Queen Victoria Street, North Fremantle
As if Propeller's fitout (a refurbished bus garage) isn't enough of a drawcard, the restaurant also makes Mediterranean pizzas with a twist. Eggplant, artichokes, lemon, kefalograviera, and egg – you'll want this one again and again.

2. Theo + Co
147 Oxford Street, Leederville; 838 Albany Highway, East Victoria Park
With names like Legs Electric, The Johnny Cash, and Dr John's Creole Moon Chicken, Theo + Co's list of pizzas requires a dictionary all of its own. Luckily, there's a menu for that… Get into the Mudhoney – a rich chocolate dessert pizza topped with icing sugar, chocolate pieces, ganache and honey.

3. Neighborhood Pizza
7 Anvil Lane, Mt Hawthorn
Head down one of Mt Hawthorn's back alleys and you'll stumble upon a bright red roller door, which marks the entrance to a warehouse-turned-pizza joint. The New York-style pizzeria makes no-fuss pizzas with minimal toppings, and has BYO. Date night, anyone?

4. Dough Pizza
43a William Street, Perth
With its cool 70s interior and convenient location, Dough's wood-fired pizza is not only drool-worthy, but also great for a night out or a quick takeaway. Order online and beat the queue.

5. Stones Pizza
400 Fitzgerald Street, North Perth
Pizza toppings can be pretty much anything these days, and Stones has the menu to prove it. Get anything from Jambalayaa and Devine Lamb pizzas, to bacon pizza folds, chick n cacciotore calzones, and brie dessert calzones. Ring ahead for a takeaway pizza adventure.

NEW BITES

• Jersey Jack Gelato in Como has, among other delicious creations, durian soft serve. Are you brave enough to try it? If not, maybe opt for a sugar-encrusted doughnut cone instead.
• Brought to you by the former owners of Little Lang Nuong in Girrawheen, Little Grill Vietnamese Cafe is a new Vic Park eatery featuring traditional Viet with traditionally cheap prices. Pho real.
• We love a good success story, so we were more than delighted to hear Chicho Gelato, which began life in an ice-cream cart named Frank, has now secured itself a full-fledged gelateria next door to the State Theatre Centre in Northbridge.
• Motor heads rejoice! Spadille Garage is part-motorcycle garage, part-coffee shop, making it the perfect hang out for any bike lover. This communal man (and woman) cave offers a friendly place to work on your ride, with a surplus of coffee, bagels, a Chesterfield couch, and a Nintendo 64.
• When in Mt Hawthorn… Drink Altruist Speciality Coffee and eat their delicious doughnuts and bagels. On the run? Why not pre-order via text?
• After a healthier fix? Head around the block to Jujuberry+Co, Mt Hawthorn's newly opened raw food and smoothie bar that's friendly and free of gluten and sugar.
• Get your toasted sanga fix at Livingstone's Urban Jungle, the latest venture from food blogger The Skinny Perth, at Perth Cultural Centre.

• Attracting environment-conscious peeps by the droves, Pearth Organic Kitchen boasts an all-organic, processed food- and refined sugar-free menu guaranteed to satisfy. Their Nutter, Acai and Green smoothie bowls are filled to the brim with liquidy goodness, and come with housemade granola and fresh fruit. Mmmm!
• The sushi masters behind Fremantle's The Modern Eatery have opened a second restaurant in Mt Lawley, and it has BYO!
• A recent change of ownership and an interior makeover has seen Cafe Delight in Northbridge transform into Paddy Field. But that's not the only difference – now the restaurant has more of a traditional dim sum set up, trolley cart n' all.
• Koffie Winkel – which translates to 'coffee house' in Dutch – is the newest edition to Northbridge's coffee scene. Go for cheap Rwanda coffee, and wholesome eats.

SEOUL FOOD

Forget the Kentucky variety – Korean fried chicken is where it's at. Using a thin batter and two-step frying method, it delivers a delicate, crispy crust with a juicy centre. With the arrival of popular Korean chain NeNe in Vic Park, joining Gami Chicken & Beer in the city, it won't take long to convert the masses.

NOMSTAR RAMEN

Nom nom nom… Oh sorry, we were just thinking about the runny yolks oozing out of the boiled egg halves that top Nomstar Ramen's noodle soups. The rich orange goo runs into thick dashi/miso/soy flavoured broth, and through soft yet chewy handmade ramen (al dente). Choose from five different soup stocks, with toppings like chashu pork, sweet corn, bamboo shoots and pickled ginger, and if you're super hungry, grab a side of chicken karaage or pork gyoza. Expect lines of hungry uni students flocking to this Karawara institution come lunchtime. 34/230 Manning Road, Karawara.

CHIN GRISH

Have a sharing-is-caring policy? So does Chin Grish, a quirky restaurant replacing L'Enoteca in Vic Park. The Asian tapas menu is great if you've got a big group, or don't want to miss out on any of the Chinese-, Japanese- and Korean-inspired dishes. Don't know where to begin? Try the rending short ribs that come coated in a creamy coconut curry sauce; slices of tea-smoked duck, wrapped in crepe-like pancakes (inset); and for dessert, a ridiculously smooth pandacotta (pandan panna cotta). While you feast, have a chuckle at the English translations of the Asian signage around the interior – from 'Beware of dog: Survivors will be prosecuted' to 'Try the strange juice'. 249 Albany Highway, Victoria Park.

BETTY & DAVE'S

Calling all early and late risers – Betty & Dave's Espresso and Kitchen in Inglewood has a delightful breakfast menu, available 6.30am to 3pm every day. Go for food your Nan would cook you on a winter's morning – pumpkin and poached eggs on thick slices of bread; gooey eggs benny; and ice-cream with waffles (don't tell your Mum) – and stay for Five Senses coffee or a super smoothie. Although located on the busy corner of Beaufort Street and Central Avenue in Inglewood, this modern-meets-retro cafe has just the right amount of cosy, thanks to a team of friendly staff and a homely interior.

Violet and honeycomb nitrogen affogato with Mocha Syringe

LITTLE ANGEL

For a cafe named after a heavenly creature, the menu at Little Angel is positively sinful. Think liquid-nitrogen affogatos with custom flavours (including maple, bacon and marshmallow), salted caramel choc pops, and single origin hot chocolates. Coffee stalwart Corey Diamond is behind this gastronomic new venture, which serves Five Senses coffee and a rotation of in-house gelato flavours, such as hot buttered popcorn, pandan, and musk stick. Divine. Exchange Tower, Sherwood Court, Perth.

Chimek's offering.

FRIED CHICKEN & WAFFLES

This perfect combination of salty and sweet is one we wished we stumbled on a lot earlier. We'll just leave a list here of where to eat this maple-covered diner staple …

Where | Chimek
Why | Chicken, maple-smothered waffles AND a side of candied bacon on top of vanilla ice-cream for only $15?! What more could you ask for?
Price | $15

Where | Etro
Why | The kimchi slaw adds a very Asian twist to this American delight.
Price | $23

Mary Street's chicken and pancakes.

Where | Mary Street Bakery
Why | It's the place to go if you're craving the dish with pancakes instead of waffles.
Price | $22

Where | May Street Larder
Why | The Soul Sandwich includes freshly cut jalapenos that add an extra spicy hit.
Price | $23

Where | Miss Kitty's Saloon
Why | For the cranberry-bourbon jam, obviously.
Price | $24

MISS CHOW'S

"Dumplings are a girl's best friend" – that's how it goes, right? Well, it is if you're at Miss Chow's. This Claremont Quarter restaurant serves up masterfully crafted dumplings – both meat and vegetarian – along with a sizeable menu of traditional Chinese cuisine. Order a combination of steamed and pan-fried dumplings for entrees, then dig into pork belly hot pots, slow-cooked beef cheeks or caramelised spare ribs for mains. Feeling parched? Don't forget to order an iced lychee drink, which is a combo of lychee and barley. With the ability to order online/through an app, this is one place you can guarantee to end up for your post-shopping workout.

GOLD BREW

Ditch the idea of dishwater – when done right, filtered coffee is delish. All the caffeine kids are doing it. From pour-overs to batch brews, here's where to find some of the standouts.

• Addison & Steele, North Perth
• Antz Inya Pantz, Victoria Park
• Bossman, Mt Lawley
• The Daily Espresso Bar, Swanbourne
• Felix & Co, Nedlands
• Humblebee Coffee, Mt Hawthorn
• Pixel Coffee Brewers, Leederville
• Red Cherries, Fremantle
• Small Print, Perth CBD
• Standing Room, Only Perth CBD

GROUP BOOKINGS

Need a feed, but there's too many of you to just rock up to any old restaurant? Try these out for size.

Bib and Tucker
Where | 18 Leighton Beach Boulevard, North Fremantle
Maximum persons | 22
Details | A choice of two set menus ($75 or $100 per person) is required for tables with more than 12 people.

The Terrace Hotel
Where | 237 St George's Terrace, Perth
Maximum persons | 60
Details | Pre-order bookings have to be made for groups of 12 or more, with a choice of any of the dishes from the hotel's menu.

The Peasant's Table
Where | The Mezz, 1/148 Scarborough Beach Road, Mt Hawthorn
Maximum persons | 50
Details | Groups can order directly from The Peasant's a la carte menu, while a set menu is recommended for groups above 20.

Enrique's School for to Bullfighting
Where | 484 Beaufort Street, Highgate
Maximum persons | 20
Details | A $55 set menu is available for groups of 10 or more.

Lapa Brazilian, Subiaco
Where | 375 Hay Street, Subiaco
Maximum persons | 60
Details | The endless feast option (set menu) is required for six or more people.

The Brisbane Hotel
Where | 292 Beaufort Street, Highgate
Maximum persons | 30
Details | Choose between set or everyday menus when you've got a group of 10 or more.

ODYSSEA BEACH CAFE, CITY BEACH

Words Jenny Susanto-Lee

With an $18 million redevelopment under its belt, City Beach is gearing up to become a serious dining destination for foodies and sun-seekers alike. First cab off the rank is Odyssea Beach Cafe, a gorgeous three-hundred seater with million-dollar views over the Indian Ocean. The venue comprises a restaurant and two alfresco areas, one of which is undercover.

Not too surprising then that new owners, husband-and-wife team Fabio and Eleanor Hupfer, are excited about the venture.

"We have only been open for a few weeks, and it's better than we expected," says Fabio. "Simply put, there's a market here that's been untapped for a long time. I believe we have a great product in regards to location and what we are
able to provide."

Part of that product package is executive chef Alan Spagnolo, who rattled the pots and pans at Cott & Co before moving on to steer Odyssea's kitchen team. A dab hand at cooking for the beachside masses, Adam's food is local, season-focused and, at Fabio's behest, served creatively.

"One thing I insist upon is that the foodhas to have a twist, or otherwise it's boring.
And boring is boring," says Fabio. "Our menu is small, with only a handful of entrees and mains, but we promise to do them consistently and very well. In this regard, Adam has exceeded all my expectations."

Despite being a third-generation hospitality veteran, Fabio has no immediate plans to become a restaurateur mogul. "I don't own any other restaurants," he says. "I'm not suicidal. "I'm an old-fashioned person, and I don't believe you set something up and then leave it to other people to run. I am the host, and I take it very seriously. I make sure our customers are treated properly."

Odyssea Beach Cafe, 187 Challenger Parade, City Beach (08) 9385 7979. Open seven days, 7am-late.

LEAKE ST CAFETERIA, FREMANTLE

These days, crowdfunding is where it's at, and few know it better than Wade Drummond. The former MasterChef contestant was banking on raising $15k on Kickstarter to launch his new cafe – instead he pulled in more than sixteen grand, and last December became the proud daddy of Leake St Cafeteria, a cute new Freo eatery tucked behind Kakulas Sister.

Now sporting an unshaven look, Wade's driver is to produce as much as he can
from scratch, and to waste as little as possible. "We do a couple of salads that change every day," he says. "So with those, I try to choose interesting ingredients. I like to make as many of the ingredients as I can."

The tiny cafe isn't resting on its laurels, pumping out its own corned beef, yoghurt, cheese and relish, and pickling up a storm. Many of the products, such as sauerkraut and pickles, can be bought in-house. Next on the agenda: sprouting. "I hate waste, so I like to experiment a bit," says Wade. "I pickled a load of fresh peaches last week, and they taste absolutely stunning. I've been adding them to some of our salads."

As well as to-die-for salads, the cafe's toasted sandwiches are gaining a rep in the area, including a Reuben, most of the ingredients for which are made on the premises. "We've also got a vegan sandwich right now, which is going really well. People are coming in afterwards and saying it's one of the tastiest things they've ever had, so that's nice."

Education is also close to Wade's heart. His brainchild, Cooking for a Generation is
set to open later in the year, a six-week module-based course geared towards twelve-year-old children. "I'd like to teach a child how to make one dish, including all the components of that dish," says Wade. "That child could then go home at the end of that module and produce a meal for their family."

Leake St Cafeteria, Leake Street, Fremantle 0424 278 339. Open for breakfast and lunch, Monday-Saturday.

WOK ST CHOW HOUSE, NORTHBRIDGE

REVIEW | As we climb the stairs to Wok St Chow House, the latest venture for restaurateur Nick Bond (Kitsch, Foam, Ria). On a balmy Saturday eve, we're told
the place is booked solid (yes, even at 5pm), so we're parked on barstools outside, overlooking a very happening Lake Street. Behind us, an open kitchen allows the sights and smells to permeate through the big space, which is taken up with comfy-looking leather bench seats and cool exposed brick. Out the back, balmy gardens border an undercover outdoor area. This is a sprawling, hip place that would be awesome for events.

Service is friendly and brisk, with a good working knowledge of the menu, and recommendations provided when asked. We're lucky enough to hit the eatery during its first week of trialling a new menu, and dither between the pad Thai, hot and sour duck, and crispy pork belly. In the end, we opt for tradition.

Pad Thai is a good litmus test for any Thai joint. It can often wind up as a glutinous mess of noodles and very little else, but Wok St's version comes up trumps. The flavours meld but don't clash, and there's lots of texture and crunch – bean shoots, slippery noodles and tofu, a punch of lime and smashed peanuts on the side. The handful of chicken and prawn could have been a little more generous, and we also could have done without the errant morsel of raw chicken – just no.

Disappointingly, the staff opted to ignore the issue rather than offer a constructive resolution. A side serve of super-seasoned fried chicken wings with nahm prik pao chilli jam put the smile back on our dials. Wok St Chow House is a fun and funky place pumping out sexy Thai fare.

Wok St Chow House, 47 Lake Street, Northbridge (08) 9328 9883. Open 5pm til late. Wednesday-Sunday.

LITTLE WAY, NEDLANDS

REVIEW | Stepping into Little Way on a blindingly hot summer's day is not unlike discovering a verdant oasis in the searing desert. Despite being a heritage building, the space is contemporary and a serious breath of fresh air, with lots of indoor and alfresco areas to choose from. Decor is predominantly white, with hits of lush green in the form of cushions, menus and plant-life. The day we drop by, the 120-seater is still only six weeks young, but is already packing them in.

The doors are open but the air-con is cranked, giving this haven a cool, refreshing almost-outside-but-not-quite vibe. As you might expect from a western suburbs eatery, the clientele is local and gentrified, with all generations represented during our visit. The service is smooth, professional and friendly, without being overly familiar. Ordering is at the counter.

The breakfast menu is as fresh and uncluttered as the surroundings, with a range of light dishes that steer away from the usual run-of-the-mill greasy spoon offerings. A generous, chunky granola proves to be a dead-set winner.

Lightly toasted and made in-house, the dish is a morerish combo of pecans, almond flakes, oats and maple syrup, with the nuts giving it a warm, earthy flavour. Topped with berries, edible flowers, mint (grown in the restaurant's burgeoning herb garden) and lashings of Greek yoghurt, it's served with a side of local honey
and milk. Too good – we decide we could eat this every day. A zingy freshly pressed juice of orange, carrot, lemon and ginger balances things out perfectly.

A peek at the modern Mediterranean lunch and dinner menu has us salivating, with
a selection of small share plates, pizza and nicely priced mains included in the mix. Crispy pork belly with pear ricotta and baby carrots? We're in. Little Way is fully licensed.

Little Way, 161 Broadway, Nedlands (08) 9386 3639. Open 7.30am-late, Tuesday-Sunday.